Thread: Crimping .38 special ?

I lightly taper crimp those bullets that don't have a crimp groove, such as plated bullets.

Let me expand my previous post a bit, as mentioned below, I use the Redding Profile crimp with plated type bullets that have a cannelure.

If you are planning to load maximum level 357 Magnum loads and the bullets you plan on using have a cannelure, you will want to roll crimp (Redding calls it their Profile crimp). Otherwise, you may experience bullet jump when firing your gun. Sometimes, the bullet can jump out of the case enough to lock up your cylinder. (This is what Wes was referring to)

If your bullet does not have a cannelure, you will want a taper crimp but you probably will not be able to load them to full velocity without experiencing bullet jump.

Make note of the following, since the 357 magnum is a longer case than 38 special, and the crimp is affected by case length:

- Most of the manufacturers sell a 357 Magnum/38 Special die set. I know the RCBS sets come with a spacer that can be used so that the neck expanding die and seater/crimp die do not have to be adjusted when switching between cartridges. Redding offers a spacer but I'm not sure it is included with the combination die set or not.
- A crimp die that says it is for 357 Magnum may not adjust enough to crimp the shorter 38 Special case. A 38 Special crimp die can be used to crimp 357 Magnum ammunition.
- Redding lists a 357 Magnum/38 Special taper crimp die in their on line catalog so it will be capable of crimping both cartridges.
- RCBS offers 357 Magnum/38 Special die sets with either a roll crimp seater die or a taper crimp seater die.

For me, if lead with a groove I use a roll crimp die, for cannelure bullets I use the Redding Profile, for plain plated style, I use either the Profile die or the Dillon crimp die.

Not trying to overcomplicate, but just present the various factors involved...